There are a lot of places in the world to choose to visit, and I’ve been lucky to see a few of them. So why remote eastern Morocco, in a smallish (500,000 people) town with no real tourist spots to visit?
My friend Lynn lived and taught English here many years ago, and has kept in touch and returned many times to visit with former students. This trip I raised my hand and asked to join, not only for the visit to Oujda, but also for the other towns we’re setting off to see later.
This week we chilled and hung out with Lynn’s friends and their families. And ate. This was the first of many meals at our host Faouzia’s house.
And we ate some more. This is a delicious Seafood Bastilla that I must learn how to make. Think seafood and noodles with Moroccan seasoned sauce in a pastry topped with cheese. Yup.
Then we had tea and ate some more. This is sister number three, Houria.
Lynn’s former student is Khadija, who no longer lives in Oujda, but came here to meet us. Her three sisters remain here and we are staying in the home of the oldest sister Faouzia. Unfortunately Faouzia’s husband passed away early in covid, but now she has a granddaughter to fill her days. She is a retired judge (two sisters were lawyers, two sisters were teachers), and lives in a beautiful home with plenty of room for guests. She has been cooking non-stop since we arrived, and it has all been amazing. I never know when meal time is going to be, but have managed to try at least a bite of everything. She speaks only Arabic and French, so we don’t communicate except through Khadija and Lynn (who speaks French).
One evening Jalil (sister number four) brought a Sweetened Couscous for tea time. It was amazing, and also on my list of things I must learn to cook.
Lynn also caught up with a former student El Arbi who had written her some 30 years ago and they had connected on Facebook. His wife Najad is just as delightful as the sisters, and they took us to lunch today after we drove out to the Algerian frontier. The Morocco/Algeria border has been closed since 1994, so we went no further and returned to a huge complex where they have restaurants and host wedding ceremonies..
The day included a fabulous BBQ lunch.
Which was followed by tea time with Najad at her home.
Which was followed by tea time at Harima’s house (where all four sisters again were gathered).
Yesterday we visited the hammam (bath) where Lynn used to go when she lived here. If ever you are in Morocco and have the opportunity for a traditional hammam do not pass it up. Literally you are sitting on a little stool with a bucket of water and pouring water over yourself. When you skin is softened up enough, you lay down on a mat on the floor and one or two women scrub you clean. And I mean scrub. With gloves that feel like about 120 grit sandpaper. The entire top layer of my skin was left behind and I have never felt so all over soft in my entire life.
It was pretty interesting, and I’m extremely happy I didn’t pass up the chance to experience the traditional hammam. I could have passed and gone to a new spa-like bath, but glad I didn’t make that choice.
Today we caught an early train to Fez and the tourist time begins for me. We’ll also go to Khadija’s house in Tetuan where I’ll learn how to cook some of this amazing food.
I have in my suitcase a package of spices for Lynn and I to share when we get home, and it will be fun to know how to put those all to good use.
Here are the pix from Oujda in the photo album.
