We left Complexity on a hook and went ashore to check in to customs and immigration. Their crew list was noted with my outbound flight details, so when they check out the authorities know I’m not trying to stay illegally. And I have to say, getting off the rolly boat and onto flat land after six weeks was a pleasure.
Since we didn’t have a definitive date when we would make landfall, Rob had booked a flight for 12/25 and our car and AirBnB started then. Once we were ready to leave Cape Verde and had a better idea of our arrival date, Rob rebooked his flight to arrive 12/23. But with up to 5 cruise ships in every day during the holiday week, there was no car available to pick up early. We needed the car since our AirBnB was across the island on the windward side. So Rob also booked a beach hotel in town for a couple of nights. It was a very basic place, but it was right on the beach. And they had a little bistro where I had a quick bite before Rob’s flight got in.
The Barbados Yacht Club was right down the beach, and as members of PYC we were welcome to use the facilities, so Christmas Eve we had a nice lunch there.
That night we hung out in a cabana and enjoyed sunset on the beach. Christmas morning we went for a snorkel and swim off the beach. I have to say that is a holiday tradition I could get used to.
Christmas morning we went back to the airport and picked up our car, then grabbed lunch at the Hilton before we headed across the island. We don’t really need to stay at super expensive fancy resorts, but do enjoy the restaurants.
This is the deck at our AirBnB. The view is facing east, and we can see the rain squalls heading across the Atlantic. Usually they rain themselves out before they get to us. Our hostess tells us this has been the rainiest December she remembers, usually dry season has started by now, but not this year. We have a local gecko that hunts on that rail every morning, and it’s been interesting watching it catch bugs. I guess this is a super chill vacation when watching geckos hunt is part of the entertainment!
There are also 14,000 green monkeys here on Barbados. We’re out in the countryside where most of them live. They came in on the slave ships 350 years ago, and their only predators are dogs and humans. When they show up here at the farm, the son brings the dogs around and they scurry off in a big hurry.
One day we went for a drive to see the beaches on the windward side. As expected they’re rugged and beautiful. Since limestone covers about 85% of the island, the rock formations were interesting. What’s not so good, though, are the roads. In all the countries we have driven, this is the worst. This being a former British colony, they drive on the opposite side of the road, but the condition of the roads is horrific. We’ve already replaced one flat tire, and are hoping to get through the rest of the vacation withtout another. Thank goodness for Rob wanting to pay for full car rental insurance this week!
Another day we did venture out for an island tour with Jim & Barbara. Before the flat tire event we had time to visit an old plantation from the 1600’s and a botanical garden.
Friday night on Barbados everyone goes to a fish fry. It’s out near the docks where the fishermen bring in and process their catches. It had craft booths, along with lots and lots of bars and grills. And very loud music. Everyone on the island and a lot of tourists were there. And the grilled mahi was outstanding.
Rob and I walked out to the pier for a sunset selfie before dinner that night.
The next day we found another fancy resort down on our end of the island, and we ventured over for a nice lunch.
We enjoyed another lunch at the yacht club with Jim & Barbara, then went for a beach day at the marine park. All the tourist facilities were closed on the weekend, so we just enjoyed some beach chairs and a snorkel. It was reported to be one of the best snorkeling sites on the island, but the reef was totally bleached out. There were rare patches here and there of live coral, and quite a few reef fish, but primarily the whole reef looked dead. From NOAA: “When water is too warm, corals will expel the algae (zooxanthellae) living in their tissues causing the coral to turn completely white. This is called coral bleaching. When a coral bleaches, it is not dead. Corals can survive a bleaching event, but they are under more stress and are subject to mortality.” I’m not sure how this reef will revive when there is no real belief that the Caribbean is going to cool off.
Rob and I took one last drive to see Harrison’s Cave and tour underground. Barbados is 85% limestone and 15% coral. It’s the only Caribbean Island that is not volcanic. There is a huge aquifer underneath where the fresh water flows in and provides delicious clean drinking water. This particular cave was rediscovered in 1970 and has been open to the public for tram tours since 1981. It was really interesting.
It’s New Year’s Eve and our bags are packed. I’m more than ready for our 7am flight home. It’s been a super interesting time here on Barbados, but I’ve been away from home too much this year. Happy New Year!
Pix from Barbados are here
